Seven Hills Hospitality Group brings a new concept to the former El Cocinero space
If you’re tired of pizza, tacos and chicken wings, here’s a different dining choice in Tallahassee. The humble sausage is elevated to prime status at the new LINK Sausages & Beer in Midtown.
LINK, in fact, replaces El Cocinero, which specialized in creative tacos for nine years on Thomasville Road. Both are owned by the Seven Hills Hospitality Group, which operates some of Tallahassee’s most impressive culinary destinations: Bar 1903, Black Radish, Hawthorn Bistro & Bakery, Liberty Bar & Restaurant, The Monroe and Rae’s.
A look at the side patio at LINK Sausages & Beer. Photo / Tallahassee Table
Like El Cocinero, LINK has the advantage of a sprawling patio shaded by colorful umbrellas. Inside, the setting is unpretentious, with concrete floors and ordering at the counter.
I wondered if there would be enough interest in sausages but the place has been attracting a steady crowd since the soft opening on Valentine’s Day weekend. Turns out that smoked meats are immensely popular, a multi-billion dollar industry. Who knew? Well, Jesse Edmunds, for one. At the helm of the Seven Hills Hospitality Group, he’s been interested in the concept for 10 years.
An array of sausages and bun options await at LINK in Midtown. Photo / LINK Sausages & Beer
Why focus on sausage?
“I’ve always loved sausages as a format,” said Edmunds, known for his charcuterie boards. “It’s something that almost every culture on the planet has, but it’s very expressive.You can pretty much do whatever you want with it. Sausages are eaten by 274 million Americans every year. It’s one of the original foods.”
It’s believed that sausage originated about 5,000 years ago in Mesopotamia. Even today, consider all the space grocery stores allot for rows of sausage of all types.
‘The proper respect’
As Edmunds noted, “no one gives sausage the proper respect even though we eat it all the time.”
Yet, it still offers creative challenges. “A burger is a burger is a burger,” he said. But the sausage, itself, can be a blank canvas for myriad flavors.
And you’ll find those here. The artisanal sausages are made on the premises. The joke is that you don’t want to know how the sausage is made. At LINK, Edmunds is proud to talk about how the sausage is prepared because all the grinding, stuffing and smoking is done on premises, including the all-natural pork casing and the use of prime brisket, all-natural pork and chicken.
What to choose? Here’s a description of the sausages found on the menu at LINK. Photo / LINK
LINK offers 11 signature dogs. The only two not made in-house are the classic all-beef hot dog and the Uptown vegan dog. The menu offers plates – the sausage sampler (with two sausages, two sides and a signature sauce) and the mac ‘n cheese bowl – plus three burger choices and three salads. Those are the Garden Salad, Chef Salad and Southwest Salad.
The sausage list features bratwurst, kielbasa, chorizo, jalapeño cheddar, turkey, spinach and roasted garlic and a breakfast sausage served with a scrambled egg, scallions and Cheddar.
The Andouille sausage is on the lineup of choices at LINK. Photo / Tallahassee Table
My husband picked the Andouille signature sausage served on a rustic Italian bun. The smoked pork sausage tasted fresh, bold and distinctive, bursting with flavor. It was served with onions, green peppers, celery and shaved fresh scallions cooked on a hot griddle. The herb aioli is made with fresh herbs. So far, no shortcuts.
Turns out my choice of Mild Italian is pretty popular at LINK, with good reason. It has a subtle kick and herbal influences, with fresh basil, oregano, fennel seeds, coriander seeds and red wine. There’s enough zip but it’s not overwhelming.
Don’t forget the sides
Another hit – my side of baked mac ‘n cheese, with that desirable crisp top, my favorite part. Other sides are pub fries, baked potato salad, baked beans, beer-battered onion rings and kale salad.
The beer menu features a few choices from Proof, such as EightFive-O, Mango Wit and La La Land; Hooter Brown and Mill Pond Blonde from Oyster City; and Floridian Hefeweizen from Funky Buddha on the craft beer lineup and there’s a respectable list of draft beers as well,
You can load up on the house-made sandwiches at LINK and use them in your own charcuterie board. Photo / Tallahassee Table
LINK also offers a small retail section. Cases are filled with sausages by the pound, as well as mustard, so you can grab some to grill over the weekend.
Bottom line: Sure, you can go for the burger or salad but you’ll want to try these thoughtfully crafted sausages whether you’re hanging out with friends or looking for a quick bite.
A version of this article also appeared in the Florida Politics newspaper published at the start of the Florida legislative session.
Cooking up LINK’s fare in a gleaming kitchen. Photo / Tallahassee Table
When you go …
LINK Sausages & Beer, 1303 Thomasville Rd., linksausages.tlh
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Prices: Signature dogs $8 to $9.50; plates $18; burgers $12.50 to $14; salads $13-$14.
It appears even astronauts love LINK sausages. Photo / Tallahassee Table
